The New York of a century ago
was a town in constant flux.
Growing
northward at the galloping pace of a mile every decade,
the city's centers of wealth, entertainment, commerce and
residence metamorphosed in a constant, dizzying dance.
One theme remained always an agonizing housing
shortage.
So when the 9th
Avenue El's opening in 1879 made the West Side easily
accessible for the first time, most everyone expected
would-be homeowners to absolutely pour into the area,
checkbooks at the ready.
But it didn't happen that way.
From Farm to Warehouse, This
was especially true in the southern portion of the neighborhood-to-be,
the land where John Somerindyck had
once farmed, fished and hunted his vast estate. The 1880s
saw an invasion by hordes of cheap, speculative tenements
west of Broadway. The land around
Central Park remained pretty much empty.
It's easy to see why the southern Upper
West Side got off to such a slow start. In the 1880's the
place was still on the outskirts of town. The heart of
fashionable society lay far downtown along Fifth. Avenue
between Madison Square and Murray Hill. Nothing much was
happening in Manhattan just below the West Side
except for the slimy doings in Hell's Kitchen and along
the docks. The lower Upper West Side was simply a
part of a huge tract of land suddenly thrown open for
development. The billowing smoke and noise of the ugly
but essential El on Ninth Avenue cast a palling cloud
upon the area. Farther to the west ran the massive
trackworks of the New York Central railroad line, which
opened around 1880. Besides adding another dose of smoke
and noise, the trains carried livestock to stockyards at
60th Street, and the barnyard stench still another insult
to the area.
Hence, despite
the aristocratic potential of Central Park West, huge
armories soon squatted heavily on Broadway at 67- 68th
Street (where the Ansonia Post Office is now), on 66th
Street off Central Park, and on 66th Street west of
Columbus. An enormous equestrian school trotted onto the
site of today's Trump International Hotel. Smack in the
center of the Central's track beds and stockyards, at
61st Street near the River, tottered a three-story shack
of a hotel.
Constantly
surrounded by noise and smell, and with quiet getaway
promised by endlessly passing trains, the deeds done
there can well be imagined. In the first years of the
20th Century there gathered a gaggle of garages and a
wasteland of warehouses about 40 of them in the
mere six blocks hounded by Amsterdam and West End from
59th to 65th Streets. Quite a few more found their way
onto lots on or near Central Park West in the low 60s.
The area certainly seemed headed for a drab, dreary
destiny.